Touring East – Beyond the Beaten Path

Perhaps that’s why now, as an adult, I am so passionate about travel—seeing new places and bringing to life the names of places that inspire my imagination today. Maybe all those maps from yesteryear are the reason that I am at my happiest when travelling to destinations in the world that might not always seem so obvious. These are countries and regions that are off the more traditional tourist trails, where there’s a heady sense of excitement from knowing that you’re venturing into the unknown.

Whatever the reasons behind my constant desire for adventure, there was no hiding from the fact that as we travelled further east into Turkey, I felt more alive with every passing kilometre. We passed vehicles with number plates from Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan, Iran, and Kyrgyzstan. In restaurants, we ate dishes of delectable food with locals who spoke not a word of English yet welcomed us with a warmth rarely experienced at home. At campsites, we were a curiosity to those who had travelled a handful of hours in comparison to our many months to be in the same place.

Crossing the Bosporus and leaving Europe behind, there was a change in our mindset—the real adventure could now begin. It seemed almost surreal to think that we had driven our Adamo to Asia, well past the point at which the Bristanbul trip had turned around and headed for home. We did, of course, stop for a few nights at the same campsite that was a part of the 2018 trip. Only now, rather than it being an endpoint, it was the start of the next chapter, as we now had an entirely new continent before us, one that was full of intrigue and mystery.

The big question when heading into a part of the world where motorhoming and caravanning are more niche than mainstream concerns the planning aspect. While we prefer to see where the road takes us, never really thinking further ahead than a few days, it is important to not only know what there is to see and do in an area but also to know where you can stay each night. Wild camping is an option, but even then, there’s a need for sites at fairly regular intervals to empty toilet cassettes, refill fresh water tanks, and ensure everything is fully charged and ready for the next stint off-grid.

Up to a certain point east of home, we had been able to make use of the Caravan and Motorhome Club’s extensive network of wonderful European sites. But even they eventually reached an endpoint. At that juncture, we switched to using the Alan Rogers European Guide. However, that too has its limitations for those crossing entire continents. And so now we are entirely reliant on a select few apps and the occasional word-of-mouth recommendation from the handful of times we cross paths with fellow travelers.

The two main apps we use are Park4Night and iOverlander, both of which have consistently thrown up wonderful places to stay, both for wild camping and sites. The sites they list are not your typical campsites of the Mediterranean or Amalfi coasts—full of swimming pools, on-site shops, and multiple restaurants. Instead, they are smaller, more intimate affairs where you’re made to feel a part of the families that invariably run the sites. A prime example is the day we spent helping to harvest hazelnuts from the orchards that formed the basis of one site we stayed at in the Altindere Valley National Park in eastern Turkey.

With temperatures in the south of Turkey too hot at this time of the year (we will return that way during the cooler months), our route east took us through the north of the country, flitting between mountains and the ever-present Black Sea coast. From the bustling town of Bolu, we were able to explore two areas of immense natural beauty: Beşpınarlar Natural Park and Yedigöller National Park. The former is notable for its vast stretches of untouched landscapes; the latter for its myriad lakes and sea of mountains seemingly folding in on each other.

Safranbolu, once a stop on the trade route between Europe and the Orient, is famed for its pristine Ottoman architecture. So much so that the old town, resplendent with hundreds of preserved, red-roofed Ottoman houses on cobblestone streets, is a designated UNESCO city. Perhaps of greater interest to Harrison and Dorothy than the living history lesson was the fact that the town is also known for its Lokum (Turkish delight). A walk through the old town, where some of the best Lokum shops are, is a veritable feast of samples from places eager to win your custom—something the children loved.

Amasra, set along lush green cliffs leading down to the cooling waters of the Black Sea, gave us an insight into holiday life for affluent Turks, many of whom have second homes in this quaint little town. Meanwhile, Trabzon provided the gateway to another national park of note: Altindere Valley National Park. It’s here that we discovered Sümela Monastery, which dates back to the 4th century and sits precariously on the edge of a sheer cliff hundreds of feet in the air.

Unfortunately, given its geographical location, Turkey requires a great deal more time to reach and explore than many European countries. This means it isn’t a viable option for touring within limited timeframes. However, if you have the luxury of more or even unlimited time for your travels, then Turkey is an absolute must—a destination of immense beauty, rich history, and fantastic food.

To stay up-to-date with our travels in real-time, as well as ask us any questions about our life on the road in our Adamo 75-4DL or about any of the places we have visited, please feel free to contact us on social media. Our handles are @MarcusLeachGlobal and @Our.Roaming.Odyssey, and on Twitter at @MarcusGLeach.