Montenegro is a small country with a lot to offer. A country that we will happily admit we knew almost nothing about before crossing the border from Bosnia & Herzegovina on a wet, miserable afternoon. The weather was not the only miserable part of the day. So too was the border control officer we dealt with, who was not happy with our paperwork – always travelling with the original V5 documents and not just copies.

After a nervous visit to a side room, where three other officers were stationed to double-check that we had legal right to be driving the motorhome (which we obviously do), we were, thankfully, on our way. What followed was the most incredible four weeks of exploring a country that, despite its relatively small size, is twenty times smaller than Italy, packs a mighty punch and should, we believe, firmly be on everyone’s list of places to take their motorhome.

Of all the places we spent time in Montenegro, this was our clear favourite. Home to some of the most beautiful mountains, including the majestic peak of Prutas, the enchanting Black Lake and some truly brilliant roads to drive, this is an outdoor lover’s Mecca. Using the small but perfectly equipped mountain town of Zabljak as a base there’s a myriad of walks and bike roads (on and off-road) to be enjoyed that showcase the very best of the national park. We recommend staying at Camp Ivan Do, which is just out of town and with direct access to Black Lake, as well as some rather impressive views.

Such is the topography of Montenegro that even the lakes have mountains in them, which makes for some pretty spectacular scenery. While many visits to see one specific corner of the lake (see picture), don’t be fooled into thinking that’s all there is to Skadar. Away from some of the busier, relatively speaking, corners of Montenegro, and stretching across the border into Albania, the lake is staggeringly beautiful. While it can be enjoyed throughout the day, an early morning visit is particularly serene and peaceful. We recommend staying at Oasa Camp, which, while a few kilometres further out than other camps, offers stunning views of the lake and easy access for day visits.

Tucked away in the northeast of Montenegro on the border with neighbouring Albania is a remote corner of the world where those seeking solitude and silence really must visit. For it’s here and in particular the valleys of Grebaje and Ropojana, where it’s possible to escape the rest of the world and lose yourself amongst the many peaks and folds of land that make up a landscape that could just as easily be from Middle Earth. With a plethora of hiking options, countless spell-binding peaks and natural wonders such as Oko Skakavice (also known as The Eye of the Grass-hopper), Ali Pasha Springs and Grlja Waterfall, this region has it all. It’s not the easiest place to get to (albeit on good roads) given its remoteness, but those who make an effort will be rewarded handsomely. We recommend wild camping at the end of the valley road leading up to Grebaje, where a large sprawling meadow provides a wonderful base to explore the hikes on offer.

No visit to Montenegro would be complete without a day exploring the marvellous old town of Kotor. Nestled at the foot of the mountains that provide shelter to the secluded Bay of Kotor, the old town provides a touch of class and elegance to a country already driving in natural beauty. A warren of old narrow streets, picturesque squares, cultural monuments and markets are surrounded by ancient bulwarks that themselves are well worth exploring. We recommend staying at Autocamp Naluka, which is a wonderful little site situated on the other side of the bay from Kotor, offering a sanctuary from what can become a very busy corner of the country, especially when cruise ships are visiting the bay.

We will share more on the practicalities of visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina and Montenegro in the third and final blog focusing on visiting the Balkans. To finish, let us say that we have not been disappointed during the past seven weeks of touring these beautiful countries. We came here first and foremost to comply with the 90/180 day Schengen Area rule but quickly fell in love with two countries of immense beauty that are wonderful touring destinations for those looking to expand their horizons.

You can follow our adventures on Instagram by following @marcusleachglobal and @our.roaming.odyssey, as well as on Twitter by following @MarcusGLeach