Fleeting though our time in Bosnia & Herzegovina was on the Bristanbul trip, there was something about the landscapes that we passed through en route to Montenegro that spoke to my love for adventure travel. Hardly surprising then that when we were planning The Big European Odyssey, visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina and Montenegro featured highly on our list of places to visit.

Admittedly, they are not countries that many people might think of as touring destinations. But, don’t let preconceived ideas or worries put you off because, for those seeking adventure and an escape from the well-trodden tourist routes of Europe, you’ll find it in spades in these gems of the Balkans.

In the first of three blogs focusing on what makes these countries such wonderful places to tour, as well as some practicalities to make life easier, we start by looking at Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Both Kim and I remember a time when nightly news bulletins would begin with the latest from war-torn Bosnia & Herzegovina, images of Sarajevo under siege imprinted into our memories. Thirty years on, and while there are still reminders of the past for all to see, there’s also a country of raw beauty inhabited by a nation of people eager to show you what makes their homeland so special.

Our first destination was Una National Park, where a friend had recommended we find a camp by River Una, and what a place to start. The gem in a crown of natural beauty is, without doubt, the majestic Strbacki Buk Waterfall. The road that reaches the falls gets a little bumpy towards the end, but the views awaiting are worth the effort. For the adventurous, various companies over rafting along the River Una, allowing for the opportunity to immerse yourself in the landscape and see parts accessible only by boat.

Campsite: Camp Buk is located on the edge of the river and while simple it is clean and has everything you need, including a small restaurant serving a handful of homemade dishes.

We’ve made a point of avoiding cities on our travels, but both Kim and I agreed Sarajevo was somewhere we wanted to explore, and we were not disappointed. Our advice is to take a guided tour, as we did, to get a full understanding of the rich history and culture that runs through this enchanting city. Starting at the far end, where the influence is heavily tilted towards the Ottoman days, as you walk along you step through history, with the Austro-Hungarian influence next visible, finally giving way to the communist influence at the far end of town.

Campsite: located on the outskirts of Sarajevo, and within walking distance of the train station that heads into the city, Camping Sarajevo is not only a great base from which to explore the city, but it’s a wonderful little site with a range of pitches, modern facilities and helpful owners.

Jajce, a medieval old town in the centre of Bosnia and 160km north of Sarajevo, is an often overlooked place for visitors, but it has a charm that is worth exploring. The impressive Pliva waterfall is located right in the centre of town, as are the old fortress and catacombs, both worth visiting, with the Old Water Mills, a collection of now-defunct small wooden huts known locally as Mlincici, set a little further out.

Campsite: A few kilometres out of town Autocamp Plivsko jezero is the ideal base from which to explore everything Jajce has to offer. It has a restaurant on site, serving from breakfast through to dinner, as well as a small cafe, football court and plentiful facilities with hot water.

Famed for its old bridge, Stari Most, that dates back to the times of the Ottoman Empire and connects the two parts of the city, there’s more to Mostar than meets the eye. Surrounded by mountains full of walking options, home to a mix of old cobbled streets where time seems to have stood still and the gateway to Balgaj and its ancient ish house Mostar should be on everyone’s list of places to visit.

Campsite: Mali Wimbledon Camping is a brilliant site that would not be out of place in France or Spain. Run by the affable Ibro and his wife it not only has all the modern amenities you would expect from a top site but a tennis court and small football pitch, both of which are well tended and ready for use. And to top it all a superb swimming pool, which is something of a rarity in this part of the world.

Of all the places we’ve been so far, it has been in Bosnia and Herzegovina that we’ve been made to feel most welcome by the people. From taxi drivers in Sarajevo, and farmers in the mountains to road-side market stall owners in Travnik, and train drivers in Mostar, everyone has expressed gratitude that we have chosen to visit their country, all with offers of hospitality and recommendations of places to visit and foods to try.

In the next instalment from the Balkans, Marcus and Kim will share their insights on travelling in Montenegro. In the meantime, you can follow their adventures over on Instagram through @marcusleachglobal and @our.roaming.odyssey and on Twitter via @marcusgleach.