The Big Coastal Adventure
We had hoped to have walked out and explored the old castle, one of many to be found along the Northumberland Coast, but with skies reflecting the darkness of the waters they hung above, knew that we would need to make alternative plans.
Eventually, after twenty minutes of unrelenting rain, the weather eased enough for us to make a run for it back to our motorhome where, having dried off, we did that very British thing of making a cup of tea, before sitting down to a game of Uno with Harrison and Dorothy. I was, in that moment, transported back to my own childhood, where many a wet, windswept day on camping trips would be filled with numerous cups of tea, hot chocolate and games to while away the hours.
Our hopes of heading to Europe this summer were fleeting at best, not that a two-week adventure along the Northumberland Coast was a bad substitute, even if there was a lack of ‘proper summer weather’, if there is such a thing in the UK. We learnt a long time ago that, when travelling with two small children, Harrison is now six and Dorothy three, it’s best not to have too many plans set in stone, but rather a loose itinerary. And so we arrived in Alnwick for the first three days of our trip full of joy at being on the road and only one activity in mind.
As well as being one of the finest castles along the Northumberland Coast, Alnwick Castle is perhaps best known for its role in the Harry Potter movies. It was here that a young Potter and his classmates first learnt to fly their broomsticks, and was, subsequently, the main reason for our visit, given that there are daily broomstick flying lessons (weather permitting) available to children and adults (demand permitting) on the same lawns as used in the movies. Harrison’s disappointment at not actually being able to fly was, thankfully, appeased by the wonderful jesters and their array of fire-based juggling and tomfoolery.
If broomsticks and medieval jesters are not your scene, then we can highly recommend a visit to the beautiful and peaceful Alnwick Garden, which is next door to the castle and makes for a wonderful tranquil experience. It was here that we were recommended a drive out to Craster, from where you can walk out to Dunstanburgh Castle, as well as visit the famous smokehouse – rumour has it that the Royal Family get their smoked kippers from here. Sadly for us the day we opted to visit this quaint little fishing village also happened to be the day that the weather turned.
Not that we are usually put off by the wet weather, after all that’s what waterproofs are designed for, but on this occasion we saw it as an opportunity to head in-land for a few days to explore around Kielder Forest, and also ensure awe had some drier weather whilst the rains passed on the coast. By explore it meant me heading off on my bike for the day, as part of a work project for Cyclist magazine, whilst Kim, Harrison and Dorothy spent time in and around Bellingham where, amongst other activities, there is a wonderful walk up to Hareshaw Linn and a spectacular waterfall.
For my own part I got to see parts of the area that would not have been accessible in our Adamo, something I have always loved about taking the bike away with us on our trips, with there added bonus of often finding places that we can then re-visit as a family. On this occasion it was the Coquet Valley, a truly wonderful stretch of road running alongside the Coquet River as it tumbles its way down through open meadows and wild moorland. On a practical note this road is accessible by motorhome, so long as you are prepared to use the numerous passing places as it can get narrow at times – not that you should let this put you off what is one of the most scenic stretches of road we have driven along in the UK.
What with this being ‘The Big Coastal Adventure’ we didn’t stay in-land for long, just enough time for me to complete my work for Cyclist, before heading back across to the golden sands where, thankfully, the had returned. With the first day of proper sunshine there was only one thing for it, a trip to the beach, much to Harrison and Dorothy’s delight. Before leaving they had both packed buckets, spades, snorkels and a variety of other kit ready for the beach and were growing increasingly concerned that they might not get a chance to use it all.
The Northumberland Coast is blessed with mile upon mile of wonderful golden sandy beaches, although as you would expect during school holidays and with glorious sunshine, many of these were pretty busy. We had, however, been told of a stretch a little way out from the more popular areas, and thus headed for Low Newton where, as if taunting us, we could see across the shimmering waters to Dunstanburgh Castle. There’s actually a great walk from the beach back around to Craster, via the castle, although with the sun shining and the sea calling there was only one focus for our day. Before we had even properly set up camp Harrison was excitedly inflating the stand-up paddle board.
Along with the beaches the stretch of coast running up to the Scottish border is known for its castles, and it was another of these old gateways to the past that lead us across to Holy Island – only accessible at low tide via a wonderful causeway that is worth crossing even if you’re not interested in castles. Of all the castles we saw along the way it was the one on Holy Island, Lindisfarne, that was our favourite, perched on a rocky plateau overlooking the intriguing little island. Be sure to check the tide times before you visit, otherwise you might end up stuck for a while waiting for the waters to recede.
Our final port of call, in every sense of the word, saw us head across the border into Scotland where we set up camp on the edge of the little fishing village of St Abbs. Set on the edge of the rugged coastline that leads along to St Abbs Head and lighthouse it was the perfect base for us, with bracing sea breezes, coastal footpaths and an abundance of wildlife. Much like Alnwick Castle, it too has a link to a famous movie, fans of Marvel’s Avengers Endgame will recognise it as New Asgard, home to the mighty Thor. However, for us, not being Marvel fans, it was simply a haven of tranquillity at the end of what had been a truly wonderful trip.
