Our Motorhome Travellers Guide to Dubrovnik

And so it is with an air of anticipation that we arrive on the Dalmatian Coast, eager to explore inside the famed walls of the Old City, parts of which date back as far as the 12th century. It’s not the first time I’ve actually been to Dubrovnik, having joined the Bristanbul trip in 2018 here, although sadly, on the day that we were leaving for Bosnia & Herzegovina. As such, all I saw of a city that’s listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was a fleeting glimpse from high above as we set off for the border. 

With a brilliant campsite on the Caravan and Motorhome Club European Network, year-round great weather and enough history, culture and culinary offerings to keep even the most voracious of travellers happy, Dubrovnik is a brilliant touring destination. If you’re thinking of heading that way, something we strongly recommend, based on our own experiences over the best part of two weeks in and around Dubrovnik. Here’s our pick of what to see and do.

Croatia’s extensive coastline is known for the plethora of islands that stick up from the Adriatic-like spikes on a slumbering sea dragon’s tail; the stretch around Dubrovnik is no different. Picking which island to visit depends largely on what interests you – be it secluded sandy beaches, ancient monasteries, rural villages, remote vineyards, salted lakes or even overnight stays in traditional homes – there’s something for everyone and itineraries to fit. Two of our favourites are Korčula Island, believed to have been Marco Polo’s home and now home to a museum dedicated to him, and Lastovo Island where you can stay overnight in the old lighthouse.

While there are any number of decent restaurants within Dubrovnik itself, the best Croatian eating experiences, we believe, come at the traditional mountain restaurants that have been family-run for several generations. What can you expect from a traditional meal? Starters are a mix of fresh salads, homemade cheese, freshly baked bread and a variety of cured meats, followed by a choice between BBQ or meat under the bell (known locally as peka) where a covered pot filled with cuts of meat and potatoes is slow cooked under a mountain of burning embers, resulting in the most succulent pieces of meat, all served with a variety of salads and vegetables. Pudding can depend on the restaurant, but our meal is finished with homemade cheesecake and a gargantuan apple strudel. We recommend Konoba Knez, located five kilometres from the heart of Dubrovnik.

While you can enter the Old Town free of charge, and while away several hours exploring the warren of quaint side streets and all manner of fortresses, churches and medieval ramparts, there’s a charge to climb the fabled walls that have stood for centuries, even surviving an earthquake in 1667 that destroyed a lot of the city. It’s definitely worth the entrance fee to see the Old Town from up high, as well as take in the various towers and bastions that they connect. Just under two kilometres in length, with a maximum height of twenty-five metres and dating back to the 9th century no visit to Dubrovnik is complete without a walk along them. The cost of entry is 250 Kuna for an adult and 100 Kuna for children, or roughly £28 for an adult and £12 for children.

Given that Dubrovnik is situated on the coast, and with one main road running north and south from the city, you’d be forgiven for thinking that it’s less than perfect for cycling routes. Think again. For those prepared to head inland, which does mean upwards (at first) there is a myriad of cycling routes on quiet, often traffic-free roads that weave their way through mountain villages, fruit orchards and olive groves, offering an insight into the life that those who live in this part lead. Be it an early morning ride, or going out later in the day, you will be in for some magical views back down to the Adriatic Sea. In particular, the road that links the villages of Kliševo, Mrčevo, Mravinjac and Ridica is well worth the effort of the initial climb up from the coast.

Dubrovnik has a long, rich history, one that has several chapters and is well worth getting to know to gain a better understanding of the importance of a city that today is, rightly or wrongly, perhaps better known for being a major part of Game of Thrones. Thankfully the history of this fascinating city is easy to access thanks to a series of intriguing museums. A good starting point is the Cultural History Museum housed at Rector’s Palace, where you can learn how life used to be for the local aristocrats. The Maritime Museum showcases Dubrovnik’s former naval might, focusing on the golden age of the 16th century when, known as Ragusa, it had one of the biggest fleets in the world. For those interested in the city’s most recent history, its part in the break up of Yugoslavia, a visit to War Photo Ltd is a must.

Solitudo: Set on the quiet wooded peninsula of Babin Kuk, and overlooking the Adriatic Sea, Solitudo is a part of the Caravan and Motorhome’s European network. Split into different areas, all featuring large pitches on hard ground, shaded by mature trees and with the pretty and pebbly Copacabana Beach just a five-minute walk away it’s an ideal base for those wanting to be close to the Old Town.

Camping Kate: Situated in the small coastal village of Mlini, and with direct access down to a beautiful and peaceful beach, Camping Kate is a small but excellently equipped site ideal for those looking for a little peace and quiet. Split over two levels, the upper being closer to the road, it makes for an ideal base from which to explore not just Dubrovnik, but the surrounding area as well. There’s a daily boat service from the small port in Mlini that runs to and from Dubrovnik at regular intervals, taking just thirty minutes to reach the Old Town.

We visited Dubrovnik as part of The Big European Odyssey. To find out more about our travels, ask any questions you might have or simply follow along then head over to Instagram and follow @marcusleachglobal and @our.roaming.odyssey on Instagram and @MarcusGLeach on Twitter.