Parts & Accessories

Motorhoming in Meteora: A Hidden Greek Gem

20th June 2023 | Marcus Leach
With a hop, skip, and a jump (plus a few ferries), our journey had taken us from the simmering heat of North Africa to the cradle of Western Civilization in Europe. Yet, for all of Greece’s ancient history and mythology, it was, comparatively speaking, a more recent period in its intriguing narrative that proved to be the highlight of our time in the Hellenic Republic on The Big European Odyssey.

Without a doubt, places like Patra, Delphi, and Athens (to name a few of the many locations to visit) offer a wealth of opportunities for discovering fascinating insights into Greek life, both past and present, as well as some wonderful campsites for those wondering what touring there is like. However, if you venture off the beaten track, you will discover a little corner of the country that is like no other, home to a landscape so beguiling and mesmerising that it might not seem real, at least not when viewed in pictures. But it is real, and what’s more, it should be on everyone’s travel list.

The place I am talking about is Meteora. It’s here that you will find a landscape defined by the most extraordinary rock formations, which by themselves would be impressive enough, a wonder of nature. Add to that the fact that several of those rock pillars are crowned with ancient Byzantine monasteries that have been home to monks for over five hundred years, a wonder of human ingenuity, and you begin to understand why it is such a popular destination.

 

Welcome to Meteora

Despite all of this, we might not have ventured into the heart of Greece had it not been for a friend recommended we do so, as we had previously not heard of Meteora or Kalabaka, the small town that sits at the foot of the rock pillars. With three possible campsites in and around the town, we opted for the one furthest from the hustle and bustle (Camping the Cave) and thus closest to the monasteries, affording us relative peace camped in the shadows of the gargantuan slabs of rock. We’ve woken up with some special views over the past twelve months, but this was a particularly special place.

Once upon a time, there were twenty-four monasteries in the region, although today only six remain active, with around fifty nuns and seventeen monks living in them. With careful planning and an early start, it is possible to visit all of them in a day. However, we recommend taking two days and not rushing. For the active, it is possible to walk from Camping the Cave to the monasteries or cycle up the short climb to the higher monasteries.

The Monastery of Great Meteoron

This is the oldest and largest of the six monasteries, sitting atop the Platys Lithos or Playtlithos rock. Dating back to the mid-1300s, it was founded by a scholar-monk of Mount Athos, Saint Athanasios Meteorites. In addition to being home to the main museum for visitors coming to the region, it also houses an unusual collection of skulls of monks who have lived there over the years.

The Monastery of Great Meteoron

The Monastery of St. Stephen

This is the easiest monastery to access, as it doesn’t have steps but rather a flat bridge, making it ideal for those with accessibility issues. It has two chapels—the old 15th-century Saint Steven’s chapel, which suffered major damage during WWII and the consequent Greek Civil War, and the 18th-century main cathedral which is dedicated to Saint Charalambos and includes his holy relics. From the garden, you can enjoy spectacular views towards the valley of Thessaly, the River Pinios, and the Pindos Mountain range across the plain.

The Monastery of Varlaam

Taking its name from the monk who built the monastery in 1350, originally constructing three churches, a room, and a water tank, it fell into disrepair after his death, remaining derelict for over two hundred years. It was eventually refounded in 1517 and today offers exceptional views to visitors, as well as a beautiful museum where they exhibit many of the monastery’s valuable relics, art, and manuscripts.

The Monastery of Varlaam

The Monastery of St. Nikolaos

Founded at the end of the 14th century, it still has excellent frescoes from the same period. Due to a lack of space on the rock, it is built over several floors, all accessible from the inside thanks to a single staircase. The frescoes decorating the little church of the monastery are considered among the most important sets of post-Byzantine paintings, as it is the oldest known signed work of Theophanes.

The Monastery of Roussanou

The monastery is a single building that occupies the entire top of the cliff it sits on, creating the impression that it is carved directly from the rock itself. Situated lower down the valley, it is the easiest to access from Kalabaka, but it doesn’t offer the same staggering views as the remaining five. It is home to a series of excellent Cretan-style wall paintings that are over five hundred years old.

The Monastery of Roussanou

The Monastery of Holy Trinity

Of all the iconic photographs you will see from Meteora, perhaps The Holy Trinity Monastery, also known as Agia Triada, is the standout shot people get. In addition to being the most photographed, it is also the hardest to reach, given how it sits on a single finger of rock rising precariously from the valley floor. It lay derelict for some time until, in 1909, a small group of Greek archaeologists surveying the monastery discovered a crypt containing 47 rare parchments and ancient codes. This led to its restoration over the years, and more recently, it featured in the 1981 James Bond film ‘For Your Eyes Only’.

 

As always, if you have any questions about our life on the road in our Adamo 75-4DL or about any of the places we have visited, please feel free to contact us on social media. Our handles are @MarcusLeachGlobal and @Our.Roaming.Odyssey, and on Twitter at @MarcusGLeach.

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