Motorhome Adventure to a Disney Wonderland
With our time in Innsbruck sadly at an end, the logical route from Austria into Germany would have seen us head due north in the direction of Munich. However, that would have meant missing out on a visit to one of Europe’s most magical attractions, meaning all logic went out of the window, and we set off instead on a westerly trajectory for the little village of Schwangau. As we did so, it began to snow, adding to the excitement that we might see the castle at its spellbinding best, draped in a sparkling winter coat.
Dating back to 1868, Schloss Neuschwanstein, to give it its official name, was commissioned by the eccentric and reclusive King Ludwig II in the years following the Austro-Prussian war, during which time he lost his powers. According to letters sent to his close friend, German composer Richard Wagner, his intentions with Neuschwanstein were to ‘rebuild old castle ruins of Hohenschwangau (his boyhood residence) in the authentic style of the old German knights’ castles’.
Sadly, he never lived long enough to see his full vision come to life, dying in mysterious circumstances in 1886, although, thankfully the work on the castle continued until it was finally finished in 1892. It was not long after that the doors were opened for tourists to marvel at the Romanesque Revival architecture, medieval-inspired towers and turrets, intricate stonework, and lavish interior details. One such tourist, a certain Mr Walt Disney, was so impressed with the castle when he visited that it became the inspiration for Sleeping Beauty’s very own fairytale palace.
Travelling into Schwangau in our Bailey Adamo 75-4DL, we were greeted by a fresh layer of crisp white snow covering all that the eye could see. It almost felt as if we were entering our fairytale. Harrison and Dorothy were already excitedly pointing out the castle, visible in passing snatches through the sugar-coated trees of the surrounding forest that we passed through. Wrapped warm in thick winter clothing, we began the spiralling walk up towards the castle’s entrance, marvelling at the enchanted forest as we did so.
A quirk of visiting Neuschwanstein is that you can only do so by taking a guided tour, which needs to be pre-booked for a set time and, this being Germany, everything runs very functionally. This meant that having been a little slower getting there due to the snow, we had to make haste to get up to the castle, not the easiest task with the upward path covered in snow and two young children more interested in having a snowball fight. With less than a minute to spare, we made it, albeit a little out of breath after running the final few hundred meters while carrying the children.
It might be a little controversial to say this, but, as wondrous as the castle looks from the outside, it’s the inside that leaves you in awe of Ludwig’s grand vision. As you walk through a series of increasingly lavish and magnificent rooms, each with a seemingly greater attention to detail and splendour than the last, it’s easy to forget that ultimately this was never a castle for a ruling monarch, but the home for one man. Either way, it is a must-visit location for those travelling to southern Bavaria, and worth a detour if it’s not quite on your route.
Practical Information: Visiting the castle is only possible as part of a guided tour, and it is essential to plan ahead of time and pre-book tickets for your visit. Also, be warned, if you miss the allotted time of your tour, it is unlikely you will be able to join a later group, so make sure you arrive in plenty of time and factor in the walk up to the castle. Tickets are available through the official seller.
