Exploring The Black Forest: Part II
With our home-on-wheels, Unicorn I Valencia, towing smoothly behind us, we swept along the tree-lined roads, spotting an abundance of enormous white storks soaring gracefully overhead — A 2-meter-wide symbol of good luck, which we hoped meant better things for the second half of our trip.
We soon arrived at Camping Kleinenzhof, situated deep in a valley. And with a melody of birdsong and tall, dark, forest-clad hills visible in every direction from our pitch, we felt like we were camping in the beating heart of the Black Forest.
One of our favourite things about caravanning is being able to immerse ourselves in nature whilst still being able to easily access attractions and conveniences if we wanted, and Kleinenzhof was perfect for that.
Less than a 15-minute drive from the campsite sits the bustling spa town of Bad Wildbad. A town that, despite having the word ‘bad’ twice in its name, wasn’t bad at all. Quite the opposite! And we strolled around on that sunny afternoon, beginning at the Royal Spa Gardens. This mapped-out trail took us along a smooth footpath which runs through the park dotted with picnic-goers, and alongside the rocky river that cuts through the centre of the town. Along the route, points of interest are marked, with my personal favourite being the old water mill that twinkled in the sun as water flowed through its ancient wheel.
By the end of it, we’d worked up quite an appetite, so we found our way along the tramlines and back to the hustle and bustle for a bite to eat in the warm evening sunshine.
Bad Wildbad isn’t just an urban playground though. It’s a natural haven too! We discovered this the following day when we headed back there to explore some of the rich forests that surround the town.
Arriving at the Baumwipfelpfad treetop trail, we were buzzing with excitement. This was somewhere we’d seen pictures of online years earlier and immediately added to our list. You may be wondering what makes this treetop trail so special. Well, it’s the first one we’ve come across that’s 100% wheelchair accessible, and it happens to be in a stunning location! After a short walk to the entrance, deep in the forest, we set off on the smooth boardwalk, gradually ascending into the trees. It was 26ºC, there wasn’t a single wisp of cloud in sight, and the tall trees cast a mottled shadow on the wooden pathway. The perfect day for exploring!
Along the route, we discovered “Activity Stations” with little agility courses that Big-Kid-Stephen enjoyed, and “Learning Stations” that taught us about wildlife. It was here that we noticed how high we had climbed when we paused to enjoy the view and were eye-to-eye with a black squirrel!
We could have happily sat and watched it all day, enthralled by the simple act of it nibbling on nuts that were left in a feeder, but we hadn’t even made it to the main attraction yet — A lookout platform that spirals more than 40 meters into the air. Our eyes widened as it came into view, and as we climbed higher and higher, the trees that towered over us began to shrink. By the time we’d made it to the top, they looked as though they belonged on a model railway! The crystal-clear skies worked in our favour, and we could see miles and miles into the distance, with a sea of dark green trees all around. It was quite a sight to behold!
All too soon, it was time to start heading back. I took a long way down, spiralling around and around the way we came, while Big-Kid-Stephen took the shortcut — a spiral slide that reaches a speedy 20-30mph!
In no time at all, we were back at the base of the valley, with those tall trees now casting drawn-out shadows across the campsite. One of our favourite features on our caravan, especially when travelling abroad, is the external BBQ point. And as the sky turned from blue to pink, littered with stars, we grilled bratwurst and chatted the night away, preparing for the next, and final, day’s adventures.
Scotland has the North Coast 500, America has Route 66, and Germany has the Black Forest High Road. At just 37 miles, it may not be as long as most tourist driving routes, but with lots of places to stop off along the way, it can easily take up a whole day! So, we set off early, wanting to make the most of our time.
Joining the route at the northern end near Baden-Baden, we worked our way southwards, sweeping along the winding roads. As you probably could have guessed, the Black Forest High Road gets its name from its elevation, and before long, the trees parted to reveal magnificent views of the rolling hills below. Thanks again to the clear skies, we could see to the very edge of the forest, where the earthy greens suddenly stop and make way for civilization.
The highest point along the route is Lake Mummelsee, at 1036m above sea level. This popular tourist spot has places to eat, shop, and relax, and we couldn’t resist stopping for a wander. With the Hornisgrinde (the highest mountain in the northern Black Forest) as a backdrop, the water in the cirque lake was as dark as the trees reflecting on it. Legend has it that nymphs and mermaids inhabit the waters, and as couples paddled boats across it, we strolled around the half-mile-long footpath that circles it, soaking up the summer sights and sounds.
Continuing our drive, we passed many more places to stop but decided to pull in at the Lothar Path. If you know anything about us, it’s that we love a boardwalk! This unique one was built in an area of woodland that was destroyed by Hurricane Lothar on Boxing Day in 1999. The site has been left to self-regenerate since then, and the 800-meter path gave us a close look at the wonders of nature and how it can heal when left to its own devices. It was quite a contrast to the lush, tall trees we’d been surrounded by up until now but beautifully fascinating!
As the warm afternoon sun began to sink towards the horizon, we made our way to our final stop — the Ellbachsee Viewing Platform. After a short walk through the dense trees and buttercups that glowed a luminous yellow, we turned a corner and were greeted with a platform made of Douglas fir.
“Wow!” we gasped in unison. It was even better than the photographs! This platform hangs over the edge of the mountainside at an altitude of 921 meters, and the views were breathtaking! High above even the birds, with barely a breeze in the air, we’d never experienced a peacefulness like it.
It gave us a moment of calm to reflect on what had been a trip full of excitement and wonder. We hadn’t just ticked another destination off our list. We’d made memories that will last a lifetime… and it’s all thanks to our caravan!
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