Adventuring through Morocco: Ait Benhaddou and Beyond
“Daddy, why did we stop here?” Dorothy asks, curious about our unexpected pause on a desolate stretch of road.
Amidst the barren landscape, a lone shepherd perched on a rock captures our attention as he patiently oversees his grazing goats and sheep. “Look over there“, I point, as a surprising sight unfolds before Dorothy and Harrison.
To their astonishment, three little heads emerge from the uppermost branches of a nearby tree—a trio of goats in an unconventional habitat. “Goats!” they exclaimed simultaneously. “In a tree!”
Among the wonders we’ve encountered in Morocco, spotting these tree-climbing goats had eluded us until then. We had begun to wonder if they were mere legends. However, our decision to explore the Anti-Atlas Mountains instead of the Sahara Desert led us to this extraordinary encounter.
While many are drawn to the allure of the Sahara when venturing further south in Morocco, our path took us west from Ait Benhaddou, where lesser-known attractions awaited.
Back in 1984, a Belgian artist named Jean Verame painted gigantic granite rocks in hues of blue, red, and yellow as a tribute to his late wife. This art installation stands out as both bizarre and captivating. Today, locals preserve and cherish these painted rocks, appreciating their ability to attract curious travellers to their corner of the world.
Visiting these rocks had long been a priority on Kim’s wish list for our journey, and as we stand in awe before them, their monumental size dwarfs us. It was the rocks that initially brought us here, but the charm and vibrancy of nearby Tafraout have made us linger.
At the town’s edge lies an oasis of palm trees nestled at the foot of a mountain—a perfect spot for wild camping. For those who prefer designated pitches and facilities, campsites are available. What makes this place truly special is the daily visits from industrious locals offering various goods and services.
A baker tempts us with freshly baked bread, pastries, and delightful macarons. Two young boys present baskets filled with eggs. An elderly gentleman arrives with his horse and cart, carrying a diverse selection of fruits and vegetables. A lady provides pickup and drop-off laundry services, along with home-cooked meals delivered right to your motorhome. Some specialize in motorhome repairs, both interior and exterior. There’s even a mobile barber and a small truck ready to refill your water supply. They are all friendly, happy to chat, and equally content to leave you in peace if their services are not needed.
Tafraout itself buzzes with activity, a place where no request is too much trouble, and every problem finds a solution. Market day, in particular, entices us to explore further as bustling streets transform into a paradise of fresh produce stalls. Reluctant to leave this enchanting place, we know our ferry back to Spain awaits, and we mustn’t delay for too long.
Our journey north is punctuated by a few stops, starting with Palmeraie, a campsite south of Agadir that undoubtedly ranks as the best we experienced in Morocco. After wild camping, the luxury of lounging by the pool while indulging in delicious meals from an excellent restaurant is a welcome treat. With newfound energy, we set off for Chefchaouen, our final destination before setting sail for Spain.
Nestled amidst the Rig Mountains, Chefchaouen bursts with vibrant colours, earning its reputation as the Santorini of North Africa. Despite its popularity among tourists—a rarity for us after exploring off-the-beaten-path locations in Morocco—it still retains its charm and wonders within the blue streets and alleyways. Countless stalls offer magic boxes and artwork depicting the famous streets of the old town.
As all good things must come to an end, our time in Morocco has reached its conclusion. However, our love for this captivating country will endure for a long time. We know without a doubt that we will return to explore more of its wonders.
Don’t forget you can follow more of our adventures over on Instagram by following @MarcusLeachGlobal and @Our.Roaming.Odyssey, and on Twitter at @MarcusGLeach.
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